What You Can Still Plant in Late November
Late November presents both opportunities and limitations for Australian gardeners hoping for Christmas summer harvests. The good news: soil is warm, which speeds up growth. Days are long, giving plants plenty of sun. Some crops can genuinely reach your Christmas table if you plant now.
The reality check: Christmas is roughly four weeks away. This limits your options to genuinely fast-growing vegetables. Understanding what’s realistic prevents disappointment and helps you plan effectively.
Fast Crops You Can Plant Now and Pick by Christmas
Lettuce and Asian Greens
Harvest timeline: 3-4 weeks from advanced seedlings, 6-8 weeks from seed
Lettuce and Asian greens offer your best chance for Christmas harvests. Looseleaf lettuces handle heat better than firm-headed types. Asian greens like bok choy, pak choy, and mizuna grow quickly in warm conditions.
Best varieties for late November:
- Oak leaf lettuce
- Lollo Rosso
- Red Coral
- Baby leaf salad mixes
- Bolt-resistant bok choy varieties
Growing tips for heat:
Water morning and evening during hot weather. Consistent moisture prevents bitterness and bolting. Install shade cloth providing 30-50% shade over beds using simple hoops or stakes. Position plants where they receive morning sun but afternoon shade from buildings or fences.
Mulch around plants to keep roots cool and conserve moisture. Start harvesting baby leaves at 3-4 weeks for quickest results.
Radishes
Harvest timeline: 25-35 days from sowing
Radishes are one of the most reliable vegetables for Christmas harvest starting in late November. They grow quickly in warm soil and handle heat reasonably well.
Best approach:
- Choose round varieties like Cherry Belle or French Breakfast
- Sow seeds 1-2cm deep directly into beds
- Thin to 5cm spacing once germinated
- Water consistently (irregular watering causes cracking)
- Check from day 20 onwards and harvest promptly
Radishes left too long in warm ground turn woody and develop strong flavours. Pull as soon as they reach usable size.
Spring Onions
Harvest timeline: 4 weeks for small but usable stems
Spring onions planted now won’t be thick by Christmas, but pencil-thin stems work perfectly for salads and garnishing. Sow seeds directly or plant seedling bunches from nurseries.
Quick establishment:
- Plant seeds 5mm deep, 2cm apart
- Thin to 5cm spacing once established
- Water regularly (shallow roots dry quickly)
- Expect small but functional stems by Christmas
Plants continue growing into January and February for larger harvests beyond the Christmas period.
Basil, Mint, Chives, and Parsley
Harvest timeline: 3-4 weeks from transplanting seedlings
Fresh herbs transform Christmas cooking. Basil establishes fastest in warm soil. Mint grows aggressively once temperatures rise. Chives from divided clumps produce quickly. Parsley from advanced seedlings provides leaves within a month.
Herb growing essentials:
- Plant in well-drained soil with compost
- Full sun preferred, but afternoon shade helps in extreme heat
- Water regularly, allowing slight drying between waterings
- Harvest regularly to encourage bushier growth
- Pinch basil tips to prevent flowering
Crops You Can Plant Now for Early January Summer Harvest
These won’t reach Christmas but will be ready shortly after.
Zucchini
Harvest timeline: 6-8 weeks from seed, 4-5 weeks from advanced seedlings
Zucchini grows remarkably fast in warm soil. Advanced seedlings from nurseries can potentially deliver late December or early January harvests.
What you need to know:
- Plants produce prolifically once they start
- Flowers appear within a few weeks of planting
- First fruit follows 7-10 days after flowers
- Needs consistent water and full sun
- Benefits from weekly liquid feeding
Choose compact bush varieties if space is limited. Allow 1 square metre per plant as they spread significantly.
Cucumbers
Harvest timeline: 8-10 weeks from seed, 5-6 weeks from seedlings
Cucumbers are quick climbers in warm regions. They won’t make Christmas but provide fresh picking through January and February.
Setup requirements:
- Install trellis or support before planting
- Choose short-season varieties (Lebanese, apple cucumbers)
- Ensure pollination access (flowers need insects)
- Water deeply 2-3 times weekly in heat
- Mulch heavily to conserve moisture
Vertical growing on trellis saves space and keeps fruit clean and straight.
Beans
Harvest timeline: 7-9 weeks from sowing
Bush beans mature more quickly than climbing varieties in summer heat. They won’t reach Christmas but provide picking from mid-January onwards.
Succession planting strategy:
- Sow first batch now for mid-January harvest
- Plant another batch in 2 weeks for continuous supply
- Choose bush beans over climbing types for speed
- Sow seeds 3-5cm deep directly into beds
- Water until established, then reduce frequency
Beans grow best in warm soil and decline as autumn approaches, so multiple sowings through December capture the best growing window.
Crops That Are Too Late for Christmas But Still Worth Starting Now
Being realistic about timing builds trust and prevents wasted effort.
Tomatoes
Harvest timeline: 10-16 weeks from seed, 8-12 weeks from seedlings
Tomatoes planted in late November are too late for Christmas unless you buy very advanced seedlings already flowering or setting fruit. Even then, fruit needs 6-8 weeks from flower to ripe tomato.
Why plant them anyway:
Late-planted tomatoes provide summer bowls through February and March. They avoid early-season pests that plague spring-planted tomatoes. The warm soil means rapid establishment and strong growth.
Buy the largest seedlings available (20cm+ tall, preferably in 15cm pots). Plant cherry tomato varieties which mature faster than large fruiting types.
Sweet Corn
Harvest timeline: 12-14 weeks minimum
Sweet corn requires too long to maturity for any Christmas harvest. However, planting now still delivers fresh corn for February and early March picking.
Corn planting essentials:
- Plant in blocks (minimum 4×4 plants) for proper pollination
- Requires full sun and consistent water
- Heavy feeder needing regular fertilising
- Space plants 30cm apart in rows 60cm apart
Corn planted in late November benefits from long, hot growing season. It matures before autumn’s cooler temperatures slow growth.
Using Advanced Seedlings to Catch Up
What to Look For at Nurseries
Large, well-established seedlings can shorten harvest timelines significantly. Look for plants in 10-15cm pots rather than small seedling punnets. Bigger plants have established root systems that continue growing immediately after transplanting.
Size matters for Christmas harvests:
- Lettuce: Look for plants with 8-10 true leaves
- Zucchini: 15-20cm tall with several mature leaves
- Cucumber: 20cm+ with at least 4-5 leaves
- Tomatoes: 30cm+ tall, ideally with flowers forming
- Herbs: Bushy plants in 10cm pots
Avoiding Transplant Shock
Large seedlings suffer more transplant shock than small ones. Minimize stress by transplanting in late afternoon or evening when temperatures drop. Water plants thoroughly before removing them from pots. Dig holes larger than root balls and backfill with compost-enriched soil.
Water immediately after planting and daily for the first week. Provide temporary shade for 3-4 days using shade cloth, boxes, or umbrellas. This protects leaves while roots re-establish. Remove shade gradually over several days.
Climate Notes for Late-November Planting
Northern Australia
Growing advantages:
- Long planting windows extending through summer
- Rapid growth in humid heat
- Tropical varieties excel
Northern regions still have excellent timing for summer harvest planting. Humidity accelerates growth rates. Focus on heat-tolerant varieties bred for tropical conditions.
Wet season considerations:
Northern wet season typically begins December-January. Heavy rain can damage delicate seedlings and promote fungal diseases. Plant in raised beds with excellent drainage. Provide overhead protection for vulnerable seedlings during downpours.
Southern Australia
Growing constraints:
- Shorter daylight than northern regions
- Warm soil but cooling into summer
- Success requires focusing on fastest crops only
Southern states have less margin for error with late November planting. Concentrate efforts on genuinely fast crops: lettuce, radishes, Asian greens, spring onions, and herbs. These still produce reliable Christmas harvests.
Slower crops like tomatoes, zucchini, and beans work for January-February harvest but won’t make Christmas tables. Be realistic about which investments of time and space make sense for your goals.
Summer Harvest Soil Prep and Heat Management
Quick Soil Improvement
Late November planting doesn’t allow time for extensive soil preparation. Focus on quick wins. Add 5-10cm of compost to planting areas and fork through the top 15cm of soil. This improves moisture retention and provides nutrients without requiring weeks of composting.
Avoid heavy manures or fresh fertilizers which can burn plants in heat. Use well-aged compost or worm castings instead. If soil is compacted, focus preparation on planting holes rather than entire beds.
Mulch to Hold Moisture
Mulching is non-negotiable for late-season planting in Australian heat. Apply 5-7cm of organic mulch around plants, keeping it clear of stems. Suitable mulches include:
- Lucerne hay
- Pea straw
- Sugar cane mulch
- Aged wood chips
- Shredded leaves
Mulch dramatically reduces watering requirements and keeps root zones cooler. This allows plants to direct energy into growth rather than stress response.
Shade Cloth Solutions
Simple shade structures make the difference between success and failure for many summer crops. Use 30-50% shade cloth stretched over frames made from:
- PVC pipe hoops
- Star pickets with wire mesh
- Wooden stakes and string
- Repurposed tomato cages
Position shade to provide relief during afternoon heat (roughly 2pm-6pm). Morning sun is less intense and benefits plant growth. Removable shade allows you to adjust coverage as temperatures fluctuate.
Watering Strategy
Water early morning between 5am-8am when temperatures are lowest. This allows moisture to penetrate soil before heat causes evaporation. Avoid evening watering in humid climates as it encourages fungal diseases.
Water deeply but less frequently once plants establish. Daily light watering encourages shallow roots vulnerable to heat stress. Deeper watering every 2-3 days promotes stronger root systems seeking moisture deeper in soil.
Use drip irrigation or soaker hoses if available. These deliver water directly to root zones while keeping foliage dry. Hand watering works fine for small gardens if you’re consistent.
Practical Christmas Summer Harvest Strategy
Mix Homegrown with Market Produce
Being realistic about timing creates better outcomes than hoping all Christmas vegetables come from your garden starting in late November. Focus homegrown efforts on crops that reliably produce within timeframes:
Likely ready by Christmas:
- Fresh herbs (basil, parsley, mint, chives)
- Salad greens (lettuce, Asian greens)
- Radishes
- Spring onions (small)
Ready early January:
- Zucchini (from advanced seedlings)
- Cucumbers (from advanced seedlings)
- Beans (first picks)
Late summer harvest:
- Tomatoes
- Sweet corn
- Mature zucchini and cucumber plants hitting peak production
Plan Christmas menus highlighting fresh herbs and greens you’ve grown. Purchase slower-maturing vegetables like tomatoes, capsicums, and eggplant from markets. This practical approach ensures stress-free holiday cooking while still enjoying homegrown produce.
What to Pick Ahead of Time for Christmas
Some vegetables store well if harvested early. Others deteriorate quickly and need last-minute picking.
Harvest 1-2 days before Christmas:
- Lettuce and Asian greens (wash, dry thoroughly, store in sealed containers with paper towel)
- Radishes (remove tops, store roots in sealed bags)
- Spring onions (trim roots, store in jars with water)
Harvest Christmas morning:
- Fresh herbs (maximum flavor when just-picked)
- Any fruits starting to soften (cucumbers, zucchini)
Greens stored properly in refrigerators remain crisp for 3-5 days. Harvest more than you expect to use as some leaves will deteriorate. Having backup prevents last-minute stress if stored greens decline.
Troubleshooting Stalled Growth
Growth sometimes slows or stops despite best efforts. Common problems include:
Water stress:
Both under and overwatering slow growth. Check soil moisture 5cm deep. It should feel lightly damp, not soaking or completely dry. Adjust watering frequency based on actual soil conditions rather than schedules.
Heat shock:
Temperatures above 35°C slow or stop growth in many vegetables. Plants appear wilted even when watered. Install shade cloth immediately. Water early morning and late evening. Mist foliage during extreme heat to cool leaves.
Pest damage:
Aphids, caterpillars, and beetles damage young plants quickly in warm weather. Inspect plants daily. Handpick larger pests. Spray aphids with strong water jets. Use organic treatments like pyrethrum for severe infestations. Protect seedlings with fine mesh netting.
Quick Planting Plans for Summer Harvests
Small Garden (2-Bed Plan)
Bed 1 (1.2m x 2m):
- Lettuce: 12 plants spaced 20cm apart
- Radishes: Sow between lettuce plants
- Basil: 4 plants along one edge
Bed 2 (1.2m x 2m):
- Bush beans: Sow in 3 rows spaced 30cm apart
- Spring onions: One row along front edge
- Parsley: 3 plants in corners
This provides continuous harvests of salad ingredients, fresh herbs, and beans starting late December through February.
Larger Garden Plan
Bed 1 – Salads (2m x 1.2m):
- Lettuce varieties: 20 plants
- Asian greens: 15 plants
- Radishes: Succession sow every 2 weeks
- Herbs: Basil, parsley, chives around edges
Bed 2 – Fruiting crops (3m x 1.2m):
- Zucchini: 2 plants (allow 1m spacing each)
- Cucumbers: 3 plants on trellis
- Bush beans: Fill remaining space
Bed 3 – Longer term (3m x 1.2m):
- Tomatoes: 4 plants staked
- Sweet corn: Plant in 4×4 block (16 plants)
This provides immediate salad harvests, early summer zucchini and cucumbers, and late summer tomatoes and corn.
Common Late-Season Summer Harvest Mistakes
Planting Long-Maturity Crops Too Late
Enthusiasm often overrides botanical reality. Capsicums, eggplants, and pumpkins planted in late November rarely produce meaningful harvests before autumn. They consume space and water without delivering results.
Focus on crops with proven fast maturity. Save slow-growing crops for earlier season planting next year.
Overwatering in Heat
More water seems logical when temperatures soar, but overwatering creates problems. Waterlogged soil lacks oxygen, causing root rot. Plants show the same wilting symptoms whether under or overwatered, leading to confusion.
Check soil moisture before watering. Allow slight drying between waterings except for very young seedlings. Deep, infrequent watering builds stronger plants than constant light watering.
Poor Shade Management
No shade means plants suffer heat stress. Too much shade reduces growth rates and delays maturity. Finding balance requires observation and adjustment.
Start with 30% shade cloth. Monitor plants during the hottest afternoon hours. Increase shade to 50% if plants wilt despite adequate water. Remove shade cloth on cooler, overcast days to maximize light.
Not Hardening Off Seedlings
Moving seedlings directly from sheltered nursery conditions to full garden sun causes severe stress. Leaves burn, growth stops, and plants sometimes die.
Harden off all purchased seedlings over 5-7 days. Place in shade for 2 days. Move to morning sun only for 2 days. Gradually increase sun exposure until plants handle full conditions. Only then transplant to final positions.
Planning Realistic Summer Harvests
Late November planting offers genuine opportunities for Christmas and summer harvests if you match crops to realistic timelines. Fast-growing salad greens, radishes, and herbs reliably reach Christmas tables. Slightly slower crops including zucchini, cucumbers, and beans provide January picking. Longer-season crops like tomatoes and corn deliver late summer harvests.
Success comes from honest assessment of timing rather than wishful thinking. Plant what genuinely works for your timeframe. Supplement with market purchases where needed. Enjoy the satisfaction of fresh herbs and salad greens you’ve grown yourself, even if not every Christmas vegetable comes from your garden.
The experience builds skills and knowledge for earlier planting next year. Each season teaches lessons improving future results. Late November planting, even with its limitations, puts you ahead for January and February when summer harvest hits peak abundance.
Note: Growing times vary by microclimate, variety selection, and care provided. Information reflects typical Australian conditions as of November 2025. Adjust planting decisions based on your specific location and recent weather patterns.
